Shaxi Village

Shaxi was therefore a crucial node on one of the old tea-horse roads (more like "caravan routes '), trails of commerce in Yunnan's precious green gold (especially Pu'er tea; a variety of black tea) that stretched from Yunnan to Tibet, Nepal, India, Burma, Laos, Vietnam, and other parts of China. starting as far back as the Tang dynasty, the route reached their zenith in the Ming dynasty. Only three caravan oases remain, Shaxi being the best-preserved and the only one with a surviving market (which in on Fridays), despite its historic past¡ªand has been named by international preservationists as one of world's 100 most precious endangered sites. A good place to get more information is www. Shaxi.org.

All you really need to visit the Shaxi village is Sideng Jie (Sideng streets), the ancient town street leading east off the main road, take a walk to the edge of the village at the East Gate. Along the way come to the central square with its distinctive blued-hued flagstones and pass by couples of architectural wonders wonders. Xinjiao Si is the only Ming dynasty Bai Buddhist temple and has more than 20 fabulous frescoes, of highlight of which is one of Sakmuyuni taming devils. Nearby is the imposing Three Terraced Pavilion, with graceful upturned eaves and overlapped corners; its most salient feature, however, is its prominent theatrical stage, a rarity in rural China. the absolute highlight, however, is the Ouyang Courtyard, a superb example of three-in-one Bai folk architecture in which one wall protected three yards/residences. This, the grandest of all in the village, and there were loads-once included one main house and numerous houses, a large garden, smaller coutyards, a small stage and even a stable. The stones you stand on date from the Tang dynasty; just think of that. And everywhere you turn you will find a temple or meeting hall, old gate or ancient dwelling still supporting Ming architecture.

But you have to get out to taste the real history of the place. The surrounding plains and hills are rife with endless walking opportunities. Exit the East Gate and head south along the Hui River, crossing the ancient Yujin Bridge then you are walking on the same trail as the horse caravans. Looking hard enough, you will still able to see hoofprints etched into the rock. From Sideng Jie, walk along the main road coming into town and you will come to a handful of other historic structures.